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Posts Tagged ‘Sendai’


The situation in Japan of course has not, and will not, go away overnight. It is still very much on my mind, especially after hearing directly (on skype video chat, rather than simply in text form via Facebook, Twitter, or email) from a friend who, though quite safe in Tokyo and quite far from the real center of the devastation, was even there in Tokyo terrified, and shaken, if you’ll pardon the pun, to the core.

I have been putting off posting about anything else for a few days, watching other bloggers put up post after post of serious, concerned, disaster-centric posts. People in Japan sharing their own photos and their own stories; people sharing images and information from the news, and lists of websites for finding and getting in touch with people, and for making donations to the relief efforts.

Here‘s just one of the many many stories being posted online right now. An op-ed piece published in the NY Timesa New Yorker reminisces about her time in Tôhoku, and how much has changed in the last few days, and writes about her relatives in Tôhoku, experiencing this tragedy firsthand. A beautiful, short, piece, entitled “Memories, Washed Away.”

Gary Leupp, history professor at Tufts University and Edo period culture/society specialist, meanwhile, shares his thoughts on the disaster, touching upon the history of the city of Sendai, its poetic beauty, and historical artifacts and sites damaged and lost, and those which have hopefully survived.

It is far too easy to simply move on and get on with our normal lives here in Hawaii… I just learned that my rabbi back home in NY asked after me, and made some kind of announcement to the whole congregation about my being okay. Given how completely out of danger I was, and how relatively normal the last few days have been, I cannot help but feel bad that anyone should be worried about me at a time like this.

But, what can I say? Of course, I cannot, I will not, “move on” completely. I will continue to think about what’s going on in Japan, to pay attention to the news, to be concerned; to keep in touch with friends over there, and to do what I can to be supportive for Japanese friends here. But in the meantime, some scattered news bits from other parts of the world:

*Neil Gaiman – the author of Neverwhere, American Gods, and the comicbook series Sandman, and easily one of my favorite writers – has been working for quite some time on a non-fiction book about The Journey to the West, the classic Chinese story from which The Monkey King is particularly famous. And now, it has been announced that Gaiman is working with others on a film of The Journey to the West. It has been done before, numerous times, in both Chinese and Japanese films and TV dramas, and I don’t want to say that I definitively predict that this one will blow those all away, I trust Gaiman with this kind of project. He’s exceptionally insightful and creative in understanding the internal logic of fantasy worlds, and amazingly skilled in bringing such worlds to life; he’s profoundly respectful of other cultures and their histories, while at the same time not as invested in the project as an expression of nationalism as a Chinese or Japanese creator might be. In short, I’m very much looking forward to it.

*UNESCO has decided not to recommend the reconstruction of the Buddhas of Bamiyan, and the Afghan government has decided to go along with that recommendation. Now, admittedly, there are some pretty good reasons for them not to be reconstructed – chiefly, the argument that the millions of dollars it would cost might be better spent on alleviating poverty or any number of other humanitarian or development sort of purposes, and the argument that reconstructions would be fake. There isn’t enough material from the originals to reconstruct them properly from the original materials, and so, really, reconstructed versions would be fakes.

Still, my knee-jerk response is to say that of course they should be reconstructed. Their destruction was a heinous act of religious intolerance, and was the destruction of astonishing sites of cultural and historical value on a global scale. Monuments that, the argument goes, belong to all humanity, not just to the Afghan gov’t to do with it as it pleases.

But, then again, if indeed logistically it is not feasible to reconstruct them, if that is indeed the case, then that has to be the result, obviously.

*The Australian reports on continuing damage and threats to major tourist sites from hoards of tourists. This is, of course, nothing new, but it continues to go on, continues to be a problem, and sites continue to struggle to find solutions. As with artworks, so with sites, and so too I am sure with other cases which don’t immediately come to mind – a balance must be struck between access and conservation. Allowing people in to historical sites such as Angkor Wat, Borobudur, and the Great Wall seems only natural; denying access to these sites because they are so important, and beautiful, and impressive, essentially defeats the purpose of conserving them, just as keeping the Mona Lisa locked away in a dark storage vault to keep it safe from light and other conservation threats completely defeats the purpose. If we’re protecting something – whether it be artwork, or a site – we are presumably protecting it for people, but, the people (or display – exposure to light, air, moisture, etc.) are themselves the threat.

Never mind the graffitti, the people climbing where they shouldn’t, those stealing bits of rock. Even those who are fully obeying the rules are causing damage, as the moisture in the air they breathe out – multiplied by multitudes of people times days, weeks, months, years – encourages the growth of mold in centuries-old cave paintings in Dunhuang. As the erosion caused by footsteps, just regular ordinary footsteps, again, multiplied by thousands or even millions of people, day after day, year after year, wears down the floors of the Great Wall, of, frankly any and every building that sees visitors. You touch the walls, and you think it’s nothing. But multiply that by however many people, touching it however many times – that’s why those bronze statues at your alma mater, you know the ones, the ones that people rub for luck on exams, are so shiny and polished only in those places. Even just the lightest touch of robes brushing up against the wall as people walk by, happening time and again, wore off the wall paintings, only below a certain height, a certain point on the wall, in a famous and majorly old and important Buddhist temple in Japan (I’m blanking on which one at the moment..), and that was a site where tourists have never been let in – the damage was done by courtiers hundreds of years ago, and other religious devotees, visiting the temple and worshipping by walking around the perimeter.

Is there a definitive answer? Perhaps. I don’t know. Perhaps not. Perhaps we just need to strike a balance, keep a close eye on the sites, or make difficult decisions. Some sites are closed off; others are replaced, essentially, by reconstructions built next door and opened to the tourists. It’s a problem that is not going away any time soon; and, hopefully, if everyone does their jobs, the sites themselves won’t be going anywhere either.

*Donny George, former director of the Iraqi National Museum, has died. He collapsed in Toronto airport, and was declared deceased shortly afterwards at the hospital; he had been in Toronto to give a lecture on Mesopotamian artifacts and efforts to combat the black market illegal trade in such objects.

Dr. George had been instrumental in recovering thousands of objects looted from the Baghdad museum in the aftermath of the American invasion of Iraq, and was a real force for good in the museum world. His loss will surely be felt deeply.

*The Japanese contemporary art show “Bye Bye Kitty” which I have been eagerly awaiting for quite some time opens later this week at Japan Society in New York. A brief article today accompanies a slide show of installation shots and of staff working to figure out how to get Nawa Kohei’s life-size deer sculpture in the doors.

I quite like Gallery Director Joe Earle’s comments on having the show despite recent/current events. The article states: “Japan’s recent earthquake and tsunami will surely hang over the exhibit that opens March 18, but Joe Earle, vice president and director of the Japan Society, noted that much of the work itself had already contemplated such destruction. After all, he said, every Japanese child, from a very young age, is trained to prepare for such disasters.”

And while I don’t like to attribute too much to Murakami Takeshi, or to talk about him too much, he often speaks/writes about his own theory of the profound importance and fundamental role that the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki played – and continue to play – in shaping the collective psyche of postwar Japan. Going along with Earle’s comments, I would say that the creators of these contemporary current artworks are fully embedded in the cultural and societal issues which face Japan, including not only a culture of overworking salarymen, and extraordinary pressure placed upon high schoolers, as seen quite directly in two works from the show, but also in a society that is constantly aware of the dangers of natural disasters, and takes preparations very seriously.

*One more link for now. The New York Times has a rather interesting article today about the collection of the White House and its curator, a position started 50 years ago by Jacqueline Onassis Kennedy.

One could probably write volumes about private collections, and could take all different sides of the issue, talking about how cool it is to think of all the wonderful things that a place like the White House must have, but then also the negative side of how many similar private collections throughout the country and the world must have so many awesome artworks and other objects hidden away from public view or access.

I’m not sure I have anything really to say about it all at the moment, without getting into a pages-long stream-of-thought ramble on the subject… I shall simply say that I think it a very interesting and intriguing job to have; fun and interesting to realize that there definitely are curatorial-type jobs outside of the major museums, and just nice, and fun, to get a brief glimpse into it through this article.

That’s all for now, I suppose. Stay safe, everyone. My thoughts and prayers to those throughout Japan continuing to struggle with this crisis, and to their friends and families overseas.

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Not being in Japan, and not experiencing this firsthand, it has been easier for me to not post photos and updates and lengthy accounts of my experiences. But that doesn’t mean that I have not been following it, that it has not been on my mind. And, this being quite the event, I feel that for the sake of the archives, for the sake of myself going back some months or years from now wondering what I posted about the earthquake, I should post something.

I was doing my thing two nights ago, studying in the lobby of my building. I give in to distraction for just a moment, to check in on Facebook and Twitter, and I suddenly see all these posts from all over Japan talking about an earthquake. Must be a pretty strong earthquake to be felt not just in Tokyo, but all the way out in Noto and Kyoto, I thought.

I loaded up some news pages, and quickly learned that it was the largest earthquake in Japan in recorded history. Also, that about 20% of all earthquakes magnitude 6 or greater happen in Japan. It was scary enough just reading these tweets and such, about how the shaking just kept coming, wouldn’t stop, and how for most of my friends this was their first time seeing things shake off the shelves. One friend’s apartment, I heard yesterday, has been totally ruined, all kinds of things smashed and destroyed. But, overall, while quite frightening I am sure, things were thankfully milder in Tokyo, and I’m pretty sure everyone I know is alright.

Then there were the photos and videos from Sendai. I was watching videos of tsunamis sweeping inland, carrying cars and trucks and boats smashing into wooden homes and sweeping over rice fields and roads, picking up cars and tons of debris… watching these just as the sirens started to go off and people in the lobby of my dorm building started talking about what level the warning was at and what to send out to the community.

I was quite certain that we would be just fine up here – not quite “in the mountains” per se, but fairly close to it, and a good distance from the sea. With about four hours warning, they evacuated much of Waikiki and other flood zones, and I later heard that there was minimal damage.

I sent out an email to my family, letting them know, four hours before the tsunamis hit Hawaii, that I was sure I would be perfectly fine, and not to worry. Put up something on Facebook too. People don’t know what it’s like, how far from the ocean I am, what the situation is, and I don’t blame them. Woke up yesterday morning to a great many texts and Facebook posts asking after me – and a few from people in Japan reassuring me of their safety – so that’s pretty much done with.

But it still feels like one of those days. One of those days where you shouldn’t just return to your normal routine, but should stay glued to the news, and keep the current events, the disaster, in your mind. .. I am sure that as I continue to obsessively check Facebook and Twitter the rest of the day, new photos and videos and reports will come up.

Sounds terribly frightening – and the photos and videos of what’s going on further north are truly scary and saddening – but I am glad that all my friends are safe. .. It remains to be seen, I guess, what the final total cost will be, in terms of deaths and damage. I haven’t heard much about Sendai City itself, the most major urban area in that part of the country. Is it like Christchurch or New Orleans? Is it like Kobe? Or is it mostly fine outside of the rural coastal communities we saw wiped out in that tsunami?

Waiting and anxious. My heart goes out to those in Tohoku faced with the worst of this disaster.

There are of course tons of accounts online by this point, from major news outlets to personal blogs; this report from the Vancouver Sun is one of the best I’ve come across just yet; a full day or so old, but covering a wide range of aspects of the event in numerous videos from Reuters, from the effects in Tokyo to videos of the water flowing over fields in Sendai, to early versions of the news about the nuclear plant.

I hope that all of you, dear readers, are safe and sound, and I pray for the safety of those hit hardest, in Tohoku.

If you would like to give a donation to relief efforts, Japan Society in New York has set up a fund for that. This page also contains links to a number of resources to help you find and contact friends and loved ones in Japan.

Stay safe, everyone.

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