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Returning to posting about my adventures in Okinawa this summer: After our half-day tour to Mabuni and Shuri, the East-West Center conference also included a one-day bus tour trip to Ryukyumura and the Ocean Expo Park.

I struggle for what to call Ryukyumura (“Ryukyu Village”). Many sites call it a “theme park,” and to be sure, it has all sorts of theme park style elements. You can get your picture taken in a variety of traditional Ryukyuan royal or aristocratic court costumes, try your hand at making pottery shisa, meet a water buffalo, and watch regular dance performances in the park’s main plaza that are not entirely different from what one sees at Disney. It’s traditional eisa costume, and standard classic or folk music and dances, so they absolutely are displaying “authentic” classical and folk culture, but they also have park staff dressed up as the king and queen… which is certainly neat for getting a sense of what the king and queen might have worn, and, actually, a sense that much of Okinawan classical and folk music and dances known today evolve to one extent or another out of entertainments specifically restricted to the royal court, but still one cannot avoid the theme park vibe, at least to some extent.

But, even so, in some very important senses, it’s really more of an open-air architectural museum, or historical museum park. Many of the buildings in the park are genuine historic buildings, re-moved to the park. So, you’re looking at genuine homes from various different islands or parts of the islands, and from different social classes. And many of them have displays demonstrating various aspects of traditional/historical folk culture, from sanshin music and textile weaving, to goat products and traditional sugar-cane processing using water buffalo labor.

Rooftops of some of the structures in the park.

I was actually particularly interested to see all these great historical buildings. While I love that Naha has a considerable degree of the aesthetic, with many buildings having either genuine red clay pottery roof tiles, or emulations of it in other materials, so much of the island was razed in 1945, that I can’t imagine any authentically historical buildings survive within the city, and very few if any have been reconstructed other than at the castle site. So, since I have yet to go to the Nakamura house in Nakagusuku, or to any of the other islands, and since there certainly aren’t any courses or books on Okinawan architecture that I’ve come across in English (with the exception of the gorgeous, thorough, but terribly expensive multi-volume bilingual Okinawa bijutsu zenshû – Okinawan art complete collection), it was really great to get a sort of crash course on Okinawan architecture, and so first-hand, in person.

The Ôshiro House at Ryukyumura, an example of a residence of one of the highest-ranking aristocrat families. Originally built in Shuri by the Yonabaru family.

Many of the homes are registered tangible cultural properties – just one level or so down from Important Cultural Properties, making them, really, in a way, elements of an Okinawan architecture canon. These are the famous buildings people might typically cite as the key surviving examples of historical/traditional Okinawan architecture. The park includes storehouses, a stone pigsty, and, alongside a number of other middling-elite style homes, the Ôshiro house, which was originally built as the home of one of the most powerful scholar-bureaucrat-aristocrats in the kingdom – a member of the Sanshikan.

At Ocean Expo Park: The gate to the house of a jitôdai (O: jitudee), a middle-ranking court aristocrat assigned to the administration of a district within the kingdom. Unlike the jitô who they reported to, and who resided in the royal capital of Shuri, a jitôdai actually lived out in the district to which he was assigned; this house might therefore be the grandest house in the district, or at least the most Okinawan in style (as compared to the local architecture of that island).

To my surprise, the Ocean Expo Park, which we visited later in the day, and which I’ll talk about at a little more length in a separate post, has a wonderfully complementary collection of historical buildings. While Ryukyumura definitely wins for having genuinely historical buildings, since those at Expo Park are (I think?) just modern reproductions, Expo Park has the advantage of showing a much broader variety of types or styles of homes. Between the exhibits at Ryukyumura, the Prefectural Museum, and elsewhere, it can be very easy to think that these beautiful wooden homes, with tatami floors and red tile roofs, are the standard, typical, historical form going back centuries. But, looking at the buildings at Ocean Expo Park, we quickly get the impression that during the time of the Ryukyu Kingdom, all the way up until the 1870s or so, this style of home was restricted to only the elites, and that it was only after the fall of the kingdom that this style spread and became more widely common.

A typical farmhouse from the Motobu area, in northern Okinawa Island, at the Ocean Expo Park.

Instead, we are shown farmhouses from Okinawa Island, as well as from other more distant islands (such as Yonaguni), that not only have thatched roofs, but are built chiefly from bamboo, with thin twigs of bamboo tied up together to form walls and floors… it’s a very different look, and a very different feel, from those post-kingdom and elite homes. And, while I am of course hesitant to jump to conclusions about assuming that Ryukyuan anything should be indicative of Japanese history, one cannot help but wonder if there might have been similar differences in mainland Japan. What sorts of historical buildings have I actually seen in Japan? When I’ve seen farmhouses at open-air architecture museums, were these Meiji/post-Meiji farmhouses? Or genuinely what Edo period farmhouses would have looked like? Did farmhouses in Edo period Japan have wooden floors? Tatami? Or were they in one way or another as dramatically different from the samurai homes (and urbanite merchants’ machiya “townhouses”, geisha houses, and other things I’ve seen) as these bamboo thatched huts are from the more elite Ryukyuan homes?

Call it a theme park, or whatever you’d like, but this actually really gave me a lot to think about in terms of imagining what Ryukyuan architecture, and town/villagescapes would have looked like, in the early modern period.

My blog post from last year, “K-Pop and an Alternate Masculinity” is one of my most-viewed. I guess it’s a really popular topic, not just because of K-Pop, but hopefully too because of interest in alternate masculinities and gender issues.

Left: Lee Taemin from the boy group Shinee, in last December’s Vogue Girl.

At least one commenter on that post was kind to take the time to explain that there’s another side to this – that despite the fashion and such within these music videos, and despite whatever we might be able to say about alternate masculinities (the beautiful, soft, boy who’s physically intimate with his friends, even while being cis-het, yet at least at the same time being quite different from the standard macho bro, or other “mainstream” versions of ideal masculinity as constructed within Western culture/society), this is not an indication of any level of acceptance of any gender identities or sexual orientations beyond cis-het in South Korea.

Meg Ten Eyck, in an article last week in Posture Mag entitled “Is KPop as Queer as it Appears to be?: Androgynous Fashion, Fan Service, and Boy Love in Korean Pop Culture,” explains out a bit more starkly, and in more detail, South Korean attitudes about LGBTQ and gender identities. And what she portrays is rather discouraging, even disturbing, saddening. Even those people who do identify as LGBTQ (how did Eyck find them?) don’t do so too publicly, and apparently coming out even to your parents is so taboo, so not thought of, that some of the people interviewed even laughed at the idea. Eyck writes:

Siwon Choi engages in graphic boy love fan service, including stroking and kissing his male band members while shirtless on stage and making out with fellow band members. Essentially Choi, and other artists are claiming that their androgynous style and boy love fan service is acceptable because it’s driving sales of their albums and merchandise. However, if someone proclaims their identity as a queer person and engages in the same behaviors, the majority of Koreans would not support them.

This certainly complicates the issue, and I’m not entirely sure what to say. Can we really not, as a society (as any society, American, Korean, or otherwise), have a more pleasant balance, accepting alternate gender identities and sexualities in a fuller spectrum? In the United States, LGBTQ rights, equality, continue to make progress, and to find growing acceptance (though of course some very serious problems still continue as well), even as the kind of things we see in K-pop remain almost entirely absent, and suppressed, excluded, from mainstream pop culture; and meanwhile, in Korea we see guys on TV, in music videos, in posters, etc., with all kinds of soft, sweet, baby faces, wearing makeup and jewelery and fashion and dyed pink hair, caressing even kissing one another – but any actual, real, admission of queer identity is all but unheard of, and all but unaccepted. Here’s hoping that both of our societies can get it together and see some expansion of acceptance in the coming years.

Hōkūleʻa, a modern-day recreation of a traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoe, such as those the Polynesians first used to explore the Pacific, discover islands, settle them, and then travel between them in complex interconnected trading & cultural networks.

In many parts of the country, “Columbus Day” is now celebrated as Indigenous Peoples Day, Native Americans Day, or the like, and in many other parts, there are people pushing that it should be. On the surface, this seems like a wonderful idea, and a wonderfully progressive act, to establish such a day. But, are there potential discursive or symbolic problems with the government establishing such a day?

I guess I’m kind of of two minds on this. On the one hand, I do appreciate King Kamehameha Day and Prince Kūhio Day, acknowledging and recognizing great people and the distinctive history of Hawaiʻi, and especially in the case of the former, continuing the observation of an official national holiday declared by the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi. And, in that respect, the official government acknowledgement of the Native Americans could be rather meaningful, in a particular political/discursive sort of way.

But then, on the other hand, as for the “holiday” itself, given that Columbus Day, Veterans’ Day, Memorial Day, are all for most people so much more about simply having a day off from work, and about mattress sales, than about the actual people being honored/remembered, well, having an Indigenous Peoples Day just really seems an empty gesture to me. Does it do honor to Indigenous Peoples, their history, and their heritage, to take off from work, and enjoy mattress sales in their name? Does it do right to honor Indigenous Peoples in the most sterile and bureaucratic way imaginable, with some kind of congressional resolution number blah-blah-blah section something-something, creating a bank holiday that will exist more within official government calendars than anywhere else, which is more an empty gesture of an official acknowledgement than any kind of actual cultural observance?

Perhaps more importantly, is it right to declare such a day, and allow our lawmakers to pat themselves on the back (and, to pat ourselves on the back) for doing such a great thing by more officially recognizing, honoring, celebrating, Native Americans’ history and culture?

I won’t pretend I came to thinking about this on my own. To give credit where credit is due, it was a Facebook status update by self-described Native American activist Juliana K’abal Xok, shared by a friend, which got me thinking about it. She writes:

I would like settlers not to be so quick to pat themselves on the back for renaming Columbus Day into Indigenous Day, or posting anti-Columbus memes. Those are merely symbolic gestures. How are you confronting the ignorance and bias of the educational curriculum, the collective societal amnesia? Do you even know whose ancestral lands you occupy?

And, quoting Dakota professor and activist Waziyatawin,

“Decolonization is the intelligent & active resistance to the forces & the impacts of colonization & it’s working towards liberation of indigenous peoples…. So if you are not actively working toward the liberation of indigenous people, as indigenous people or as settler people, then you’re not doing decolonizing work.”

Much thanks to Flickr user kalihikahuna74 for making this photo Creative Commons. Despite three years in Hawaiʻi myself, I guess I never anticipated wanting/needing a photo of street signs.

The whole thing reminds me of an article entitled The Aloha State: Place Names and the Anti-Conquest of Hawaiʻi, in which RDK Herman discusses why and how it is problematic to apply Hawaiian words and names to street names, an act as symbolic and ultimately insufficient as establishing some Native Americans Day. It serves as an appropriation of Hawaiian culture by haoles and others, who take the lead in choosing to rename streets and in choosing what to rename them.

It is from this article that I got my impression, my understanding, of the scholarly jargon term “anti-conquest.” The anti-conquest of RDK Herman, at least as I understood it, is an act, or series of acts, which give the illusion of giving something back, of doing something to honor the indigenous peoples, and to restore something to them, while in fact doing nothing to actually restore sovereignty to those peoples, nor to relinquish the real power that resides in unequal colonial power structures.1 And in a way, this is even more insidious than simply not taking the action at all, because it helps hide, cover over, and ignore the unequal power structures and colonial violence of the situation; surely, we can imagine parallels to the many things said and done that give the illusion of being (in some ways, or to some extent) a post-racial society, or a gender-equal society, hiding the deep and serious inequalities that continue.

I certainly must admit I am as guilty as the next person of reveling in the feeling of the exoticness of Hawaiʻi, of enjoying living somewhere with such a different heritage, with such a different spirit, and the placenames play a big part in that. As Herman writes,

The English-speaking population of the ‘Aloha State’ appreciate an identity of ‘otherness’ in their exotic new home with a place-name code partially meaningful within Hawaiian culture itself, and partially meaningless. Seemingly honoring Hawaiian culture, this use of place names continues to serve the transformation of power and place that ensued with the discursive and economic reordering of the islands.

And I cannot but admit that I certainly don’t do all that much, could be doing a lot more, to be “actively working toward the liberation of indigenous people” as Waziyatawin encourages us to do. But, at the very least, let us not stand behind such a meaningless, and ultimately problematic, gesture as Native Americans Day. Let it not be something empty and artificial handed down by decision of a secular government – and especially by the very government which is so culpable in the dispossession of these peoples of their lands – decolonization efforts should be real decolonization efforts, and they should be something that is not handed down, granted as if a gift from up on high, thus reinforcing the power structures of that we have the power to do so, the power to grant freedoms, but rather, somehow, something that comes from a place of indigenous authenticity and indigenous authority.

(1) As I began to Google for the term in the course of writing this article, I discovered that there is actually a lot more to the term “anti-conquest,” as used by Mary Louise Pratt and others; in their work, it refers more strongly to systems of attitudes about colonialism/imperialism which render the colonizer as innocent. In her book Imperial Eyes, Pratt writes “I use this term to refer to the strategies of representation whereby European bourgeois subjects seek to secure their innocence in the same moment as they assert European hegemony” (8-9). Later, she talks about how Europeans saw any/all parts of the world not controlled by Europeans as part of “nature”; this alone, without even taking any colonizing or conquering action, is terribly discursively violent and chauvinistic, placing Europeans as the only rational, civilized peoples, and grouping all other peoples in with the animals, essentially, but all at the same time, from within that discourse, if one is raised and educated to believe in this system of civilization & nature, then it all seems quite natural and innocent. And this is certainly not the only discursive system in our history, or in our society today, which we are raised to believe is perfectly “natural,” not realizing the violence it does, or the injustices it perpetuates. So, perhaps this is what is meant by “anti-conquest,” in Pratt’s meaning, which I take as somewhat different from Herman’s

Many dictionary websites meanwhile, such as Wiktionary, have a rather different definition, conflating it with anti-colonial, anti-imperialist attitudes, and defining it as meaning “opposing a conquest; regarding the indigenous inhabitants of a colonised country as victims rather than foes of the colonisers.”

In the process of writing up these last few posts on my wanderings around Naha and Shuri, I came across a few really shiny, sleek, websites which I’d never seen before. I wouldn’t say they’re an absolute /wealth/ of information on the historical sites of these two cities, but they’re certainly examples of beautiful web design, and a hell of a lot more than I’d expected to find. Both, I’m afraid, are mostly in Japanese, though.

First is the official website of the Naha City Museum of History. I don’t know if this site is new… in the past, whenever I tried to find a website for the museum, all I found was this rather basic page within the website of the Palette Kumoji shopping center where the museum is housed.

But, this new site includes not just information about the museum (map, hours, exhibit schedule, publications, brief summary of the history of the kingdom), but also features an extensive online database of the museum’s collections, including beautiful treatments of some of the treasures of the collection. Then, not only that, but it also has this beautiful page of historical sites in and around Naha, which can be browsed using an embedded Google Map, or by categories of lists. Click on the name of a site, and it’ll give you the address, some very brief information about it, photo of the site, and map.



Above: National Treasures listed on the Naha City Museum of History’s Digital Museum site; details about the Ryukyuan royal investiture crown in the museum’s collection; the museum’s page for the historical site of the former site of the Chûzanmon outer castle gate.

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The other site I’d like to introduce today is Shuri Aruki (“Walking Shuri”). This beautiful website, with very sleek navigation and graphics, and tons of photos, includes three main sections: About Shuri (首里について), Exploring Historical Sites (史跡をめぐる), and Exploring Breweries (蔵元めぐり). Clicking through into the “Exploring Historical Sites” section, we find three ways of exploring: by map, by list, and by model walking course.

On the map page, you can select from five different neighborhoods, and a whole bunch of different categories (gates, utaki, temples & shrines, etc.), to populate or depopulate the map with those wonderful pink Google pin drops. Unfortunately, at the moment, I’m finding that clicking on one of the pin drops doesn’t do anything… hopefully this is something which is just a glitch, or will be fixed soon. But in the meantime, there’s the “list” page, where headers for each neighborhood are followed by nice squares for each site, complete with photos. They range from the extremely famous and iconic, such as the Shureimon gate of Shuri castle, to the much more obscure, such as sacred springs (called ”gaa” in Okinawan). Click on one of these, and you /do/ get taken somewhere – to a nicely arranged page with a photo of the site in the background, and a brief text description overlaid, along with links for other photos, and for the map, as well as little warning icons, telling you that when visiting the site to be careful for snakes, be careful not to slip, and be courteous to people who might come to pray or pay respects at the site.

After my own Shuri adventures a few weeks ago, in which I managed to find a lot of sites, but failed to find or didn’t even know about a bunch of others, this site seems like it’ll be a great guide for my next such town-wandering exploratory adventure.




Above: The main menu for 「史跡をめぐる」 (“exploring historical sites”) at Shuri Aruki; the list of sites for the Haenohira / Feenufira area; the description page for the grave of 17th century court official Haneji Chôshû.

It’s always nice to feel a bit still connected to goings-on at Japan Society in New York. Sadly, I won’t be in town to see most of this, but I thought I might share briefly about some stuff going on over there.

FILM:
First, an upcoming film series they’re doing. Entitled The Dark Side of the Sun: John Zorn on Japanese Cinema, the series includes one film a month, from October to February, all chosen by “maverick avant-garde composer, musician and arranger John Zorn,” and representing a wide variety of genres and styles. None have been shown at Japan Society before, and so far as I am aware (but then again I’m not very knowledgeable about film) none are the typical standard ones you’re likely to have seen before.

Here’s the line-up, very briefly:

*Inflatable Sex Doll of the Wastelands (荒野のダッチワイフ)(Saturday, October 18, 7 PM) – a 1967 film directed by Yamatoya Atsushi, described as “about a hitman (Yuichi Minato) who is hired by a rich real estate agent to find an abducted woman (Noriko Tatsumi). This simple setup gives way to a hip and chaotic worldview full of hard-boiled characters, sexy action, and hallucinatory imagery.”

*Crossroads (十字路)(Saturday, November 15, 7:30 PM) – a 1928 silent film directed by Teinosuke Kinugasa (1896-1982), and accompanied live on shamisen by experimental musician Yumiko Tanaka. I don’t know much about the film, or the director beyond having seen his film “Page of Madness” (狂った一頁), but, live shamisen? You can’t beat that.

*Top Stripper (丸本噂のストリッパー)(Thursday, December 11, 7 PM), a 1982 pink film directed by Yoshimitsu Morita, who we are told “was one of the handful of young, radical directors who were given the opportunity to explore the visual medium via the constraints of the pink genre.”

*Matango (aka Attack of the Mushroom People)(Friday, January 23, 7 PM), by none other than Ishiro Honda, director of the original Godzilla. Mushroom People. What more do we need to say?

*Finally, the first-ever official showing in the US of Ôshima Nagisa’s 1964 film It’s Me Here, Bellett (私のベレット), preceded by eight experimental shorts by the godfather of anime, Tezuka Osamu. Friday, February 20, 7 PM.

Here’s a blog post from Lucky Girl Media about the series that may fill you in further.

PERFORMING ARTS:
The film series – specifically the Nov 15 showing of Jûjiro – also intersects with a running theme of this year’s Performing Arts season schedule, “Shamisen Sessions,” a whole bunch of events I wish I could be there for, beginning with the rightfully sold out Sept 27 concert by Agatsuma Hiromitsu – easily one of the most famous Tsugaru players active today, after the Yoshida Brothers – and pop/jazz singer Yano Akiko, who has recorded with the Yellow Magic Orchestra in the past.

The Society’s performing arts programs are always great, but I think it is somewhat rare to have this many traditional (or traditional-related, given the experimental and exciting things some of these performers are doing with shamisen) events in one season. I don’t play shamisen myself, though I’d like to try/learn someday, and just listening is always wonderful. I would love, too, to hear any of these performers talk about their thoughts on tradition, on continuing/maintaining and experimenting with traditional instruments and songs, and on the place of traditional non-Western instruments in modern/contemporary music.

The season also includes shamisen performances, workshops on shamisen, Nihon Buyo, and Noh, and a concert with Okinawan sanshin player Yukito Ara (*dies*). In addition to the “Shamisen Sessions,” another series or theme this year is “Stories from the War,” which includes a series of performances of Noh plays new and old in May, and in January a performance written and directed by huge-big-name contemporary artist Miwa Yanagi. I don’t see anything on the website indicating whether Yanagi-san will be there for a Q&A or anything, but, wow it would really be something to meet her.

GALLERY:

Of course, god forbid any of these performances should be shown during Christmas break, when many people, like myself, come home to New York and would love to get to see such things, but, at least the gallery will be open, and this fall/winter’s show, Garden of Unearthly Delights, which just opened earlier this week, and shows until January 11, looks to be an incredible one.

It features Ikeda Manabu and Tenmyouya Hisashi, two of the artists from the Bye Bye Kitty exhibition a few years ago, plus teamlab, with whom I’m not so familiar, and continues, as I suppose I should have expected gallery director Miwako Tezuka would, in the wonderful exciting trend of Japan Society introducing New York, and the United States, to brilliant, creative, inspiring Japanese contemporary artists who are not Murakami Takashi or Yayoi Kusama, and who draw upon traditional imagery, motifs, and styles, to create some really incredible, vibrant, new and very 21st century work. This isn’t the 1960s anymore, and MoMa can keep its ostrich head in the sands of the past, but Japan Society is pressing forward with some of the newest works by some artists who are really pushing the boundaries and doing wonderful exciting stuff.

The show includes Tenmyouya’s first ever installation piece, based on or inspired by Zen rock gardens, as well as some animated pieces by teamlab clearly based on the work of Itô Jakuchû. While I don’t like the idea of saying “if Jakuchû were alive today, he’d be this (or that) sort of artist, and he’d make this or that sort of thing,” there really is something about these animated pieces – at least what I’ve seen of them so far in promos for the exhibit – that strikes me as falling within a continuity of his work, as not being opposed to it or a break from it. It’s bird-and-flower painting for the 21st century, not a break with the past but a continuation of it, a continuation of engaging in the same themes, the same aesthetics, and just bringing it up to the present (or the future). Ikeda and Tenmyouya’s work, meanwhile, remix past and present, erasing the borders between the two, and helping us imagine the past as being perhaps not so unlike our own time, and vice versa.

I really cannot wait to see this show. In the meantime, maybe I’ll prepare by watching some interviews with the artists.


In my last post, I shared this same picture of the construction at the original site of Nakagusuku udun, the mansion of the Crown Prince of the Ryukyu Kingdom, and wrote that I don’t know what kind of construction they may be doing, but that sadly, I doubt that it’s archaeological excavation or reconstruction of the site. Well, I still don’t know what’s going on at that site, but as it turns out, there may be plans to reconstruct the mansion at its later historical site, where it was relocated in the Meiji Period, following the fall of the kingdom. While the original, pre-Meiji, site where I took that above photograph is immediately adjacent to Shuri High School, and for all I know, they may be expanding the high school, or they may be building condominiums, the Meiji era site of the Nakagusuku Palace, which was for many years in the postwar period the site of the Prefectural Museum, is just a few blocks away, directly north of the Ryûtan Pond, and very much within the range of where a tourist who’s come to see the castle is likely to walk, and to see. If all of this does come to fruition, I really can’t wait to see the reconstructed mansion myself.

According to a 2012 article in the Ryukyu Shimpo, the prefectural government made a basic plan in 2012, with the intention of in 2013 beginning further investigations and considerations of the possibilities, and the hope of possibly beginning construction as soon as 2015. There was discussion as well of the possibility of including a local community center, and small archive/museum (shiryôkan) on the site.

The Meiji era blueprints, which still survive, show that the mansion had two parts: a front section (表御殿), where men’s activity was centered, and a rear section (御内原, O-uchibaru) which was the women’s area. The reconstruction planning document divides these into three sections: the entire palace will be reconstructed back to its historical appearance on the outside, but while the eastern half of the “front palace” will also be restored on the inside, as a “historical house” much like sections of Shuri Castle have been, the western half of the “front palace” will house a community center, such as local people have been requesting, and the women’s quarters, the rear half, will house the archive/museum/gallery.

Personally, this sounds great to me. Depending on exactly how they do it, it could be that the whole thing, the entire city block, will look just like it did historically (more or less), really contributing to the restoration of the historical / cultural / aesthetic feel of the neighborhood, a neighborhood which only 150 years ago was the home of Ryukyu’s scholar-aristocracy, the very center of Ryukyuan high culture. And, while having that appearance on the outside, the reconstructed mansion will have a nice balance of restored historical architectural areas, where you can to one extent or another really experience the site as if it had survived straight through from the pre-war era, combined with areas where those running it can hold other sorts of exhibits and displays.

Takara Kurayoshi, a very prominent scholar of Okinawan history and as of 2013 (and I think still today) Vice Governor of Okinawa prefecture, is quoted in the 2012 Ryukyu Shimpo article as saying (in my own rough translation),

This representative building of Shuri’s distinctive appearance, as a city lined with udun and dunchi, the mansions of the elite, is being resurrected. This is one piece of the long process of resurrecting what was lost in the Battle of Okinawa.

(「エリートの屋敷が立ち並ぶ御殿、殿内(どぅんち)と呼ばれた首里独特の景観の代表的な建物がよみがえる。沖縄戦で失ったものをよみがえらせる長い過程の一つだ。」)

I have not come across any newer articles indicating anything about the progress of this project, but at least we can say that this summer, when I visited, the site looked much as it did when I saw it for the first time in 2008. Pretty much empty space, surrounded by nice traditional-looking stone walls. So, whether the plan is going forward or not, at least they haven’t build condominiums or anything. Here’s hoping.

The outer walls of the Nakagusuku udun site as they appeared in 2013, and as they still do as of summer 2014.

All color photos my own. Public domain pre-war black & white photographs by Kamakura Yoshitarô courtesy Japanese Wikipedia.

A Return to Shuri

Looking back, I’m not sure I ever posted about my first trip to Shuri. In fact, it would seem I barely posted about my first trip to Okinawa at all. Granted, it took place a month or two before I ever started this blog, but even so…

As for Shuri, yes, I had been before, but it was raining that day, and so I was quite glad to go back on a nicer day, and to get some better photos. And, more than that, they’ve done quite a bit of work since I was there in 2008, and there are entirely new sections to visit. Now, granted, these new areas seem just a bit too new – the fact that it’s a reconstruction is just way too obvious, too in your face. I wish they’d done more to evoke the idea of what it actually looked like, actually felt like, historically, rather than a sort of far too neat, too clean post-modern reconstruction of it, with glass windows and even automatic sliding doors, though I do appreciate the need for climate control when certain galleries are featuring actual historical artifacts.

These newly reconstructed areas include the Kuganiudun, that is, private residence areas of the king and queen, and the Ouchibara, the Ôoku, essentially, of Shuri palace – that is, the harem, if you will, the women’s areas where the queen and the various secondary wives, concubines. and other women lived. I don’t know too much, actually, about the shogun’s Ôoku at Edo castle, but I imagine some similarities, esp. in that no men were allowed into the Ouchibara save the king, princes, or other royals. The Ouchibara is a major setting of the action in the recent TV drama “Tempest,” which was largely filmed here at the actual castle; though, just how accurately the show portrays the life and activities of the Ouchibara, I have no idea. And, despite my best efforts, I seem completely unable to find any good clips of the show to link to, let alone any clips (or even stills!) that really show the Ouchibara. Grrr. In any case, I suppose that’s all I have to say about the palace…

Above: The Shureimon, the main gate to Shuri Castle, and a prominent/famous symbol of Okinawa, seen on countless tourist brochures, souvenirs, and the like.

I was glad to go back a few days later, to walk around Shuri and see a few other sites. Of the vast majority of them, nothing at all survives any more, and so all there is to see is a sign indicating their former location. But, even so, it is interesting to begin to get a sense – directly, by walking it – of just where these things were located in relation to one another. The previous time I had been to Shuri Castle, whether because of the rain, or who knows why, I had a certain impression of Tamaudun, Ankoku-zenji, and certain other sites being fairly distant from the castle, along a road that just kept taking me deeper and deeper into the neighborhoods, away from the monorail station, away from the castle. But now that I’ve done it again, I have a feeling this time around of them all being quite close by. In point of fact, as I wandered around the neighborhood looking for this and that site, I actually ended up right in the castle grounds, and at Engaku-ji, Ryûtan, and the Benten-dô all over again, these major sites that are just as adjacent, as nearby as could be to the castle. We learn that the Uchakuya (J: O-kyaku-ya, E:, roughly, “guest house”), where the chief Satsuma official stationed in Ryukyu, and his men, would prepare for visits to the castle, was located immediately adjacent to the Buddhist temple of Ankoku-zenji. (Incidentally, the Satsuma office was located downtown, so to speak, in Naha, in the Nishi neighborhood; a historical plaque stands there today as well.)

A map at the castle (was that there back in ’08?) even shows quite nicely where each of these things were in relation to one another, with the full extent of each building or compound outlined. Thus we can see how the temple Tenkaiji stood just down the road from the Shureimon – the main gate to the castle grounds – and just beyond Tenkaiji, immediately adjacent, remains Tamaudun, the royal mausoleum, with the Ufumi udun and Nakagusuku udun (the crown prince’s palace) just a little further down, across the street from Ankoku-zenji and the Satsuma guest house. The Nakagusuku udun was relocated in the Meiji period a little further away, to a site in front of the Ryûtan pond, labeled on this map as the prefectural museum, which really makes me wonder just how old this map is… then again, the new prefectural museum only just opened in 2008, so I guess the map might be only a little out of date, as jarring as it looks to me.

There’s construction going on today at the original Nakagusuku udun site; somehow I doubt it’s any kind of archaeological excavation, or reconstruction of the palace to serve as a historical site – probably just construction, in the standard sense. Might be they’re expanding the high school. Still, to see it laid bare that way, at least for the moment, even with no actual historical buildings standing, does help one imagine the site, a little bit, better than having new buildings actually there on top of it.

Digressing even further, incidentally, the “new”, later location of the Nakagusuku udun, by Ryûtan pond, was where many of the greatest royal treasures were kept before and during the war. I recently read about (and I think posted about) how the caretakers of the royal collections hid a number of the most precious objects in storm drains or the like, right outside the Nakagusuku udun, in the hopes that they could come back after the Battle of Okinawa had ended, and retrieve them. They did retrieve some items, but an original copy of the Omoro soshi had been taken to Boston – it was then returned, but a royal crown, one of only two surviving crowns, if it does even survive, has not been seen since. The one now at the Naha City Museum, designated a National Treasure, had been taken by the royal family to Tokyo back in the 1870s or so, and thus survived the war in that manner.

While there is almost nothing left to see of the Tenkaiji temple today (a well survives), the plaque marking the site tells us of its importance as one of the main Buddhist temples associated with and patronized by the royal family.

The royal mausolea at Tamaudun, in 1955, showing the damage from the Battle of Okinawa.

I also revisited Tamaudun, getting some new photos in better weather (better lighting and such), and just reacquainting myself with the site. Though I thought I remembered signs saying No Photos the previous time I was here back in 2008, there were no such signs today, or none that I noticed, so I made off with some good information, and with some photos of photos (even if it’s not fair use, or whatever the Japanese equivalent may be, I’m pretty sure pre-war photos are public domain, or non-copyrighted, though I also appreciate the complexities of the potential copyright of modern reproductions of old photos. Anyway, whatever. Much thanks to Tamaudun for allowing photographs of your gallery labels.) Tamaudun’s been expanded a bit, too, I think – a red-tile-roofed and wooden guardhouse stands where I really don’t remember seeing any such thing six years ago.

Glad to have gotten to go back, and explore some more sites. The Naha Machima~i people, and whatever other groups, have been expanding the number of sites that have nice formal plaques around town, with many of these being erected as recently as this year (so I wouldn’t have even seen them last year, even if I had been more diligent in my explorations), so it was great to get a renewed sense of the space of the former royal capital city of Shuri.

As always, except where indicated otherwise, all photos are my own.

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